Vosne-Romanée - Pinot Noir BG (19)

Pinot Noir | blend van twee percelen uit Vosne 'aux Reas' & 'Au-Dessus de la Rivière' | samen 1 ha met 50 jaar oude stokken | vergisting op tanks van cement en foudre | rijping op eikenhout van 300l , tot max 20% nieuw eikenhout | krachtig met diepe smaken | donker randje | rijp fruit | wijn met volume zoals je van Vosne mag verwachten 

Amelie Berthaut

Een van de nieuwe sterren in de Franse Bourgogne is Amelie Berthaut. Na de samensmelting van twee familie Domaines (Berthaut, Fixin & Gerbet, Vosne-Romanée) heeft Amelie maar liefst zestien hectare wijngaard in haar bezit met de volledige focus op Pinot Noir! Ze maakt een heerlijk volle rijke stijl Pinot met diepgang en intensiteit. 

Review

A blend of two lieux-dits, Réas and Rivière, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village reveals aromas of smoky cherries and incense, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample palate with a succulent core of fruit and fine-grained structuring tannins. This is another cuvée that demonstrates how the improved farming of the former Domaine Gerbet parcels is translating to wines of superior energy and definition.

Amélie Berthaut's emergence as one of Burgundy's rising stars by now needs no reiteration, but the quality of her 2017 portfolio demonstrates that the plaudits she has received are amply justified. Uniting the vineyards of the Domaines Denis Berthaut and François Gerbet, this enterprise now encompasses some 16 hectares, with Amélie's fiancé Nicolas Faure overseeing the vineyards. The Berthaut cuvées, always excellent but decidedly sturdy and structured in their youth, are now suppler and more accessible while retaining the structure to age. The cuvées that hail from the Gerbet vineyards, which were less well farmed, are making tangible progress too, as their soils are worked and chemical treatments are reduced or eliminated—progress evident in the wines' enhanced vitality and completeness, even in the generous 2017 vintage. With a cellar well-stocked with used barrels, Amélie's use of oak is also increasingly judicious. In short, all the stars are aligned at this address, and readers shouldn't hesitate to seek out the wines. And I'll add that it would be a mistake to neglect the superb Fixins at the expense of the grander appellations from Vosne-Romanée. William Kelley 90/100