GG Winninger Uhlen - Riesling (18)

Riesling | Selectie uit 7-8 Terrassen stukjes, geclassificeerd als GG = Grand Cru | Knebel bezit 1 ha Uhlen | zuid-westelijke expositie | rode leisteen met kalk en vulkanische gesteente | spontaan vergist in kleine micro vaatjes van staal | rijping na het blenden op eikenhout vaten | intens rijp exotisch fruit | enorme fijne zuren | romig | barok! | slechts 900 flessen gevuld 

Knebel

Acht hectare op een prachtig stuk in het noorden van de Mosel, dat is de plek waar Matthias Knebel zijn wijnen verbouwd en maakt. De Blauschiefer en Rotschiefer bodems glooien hier stijl naar boven, een zeer indrukwekkend en eeuwenoud landschap. Matthias staat sinds 2009 aan het roer van het familiewijngoed. Er worden tijdens het proces geen additieven gebruikt (naast sulfiet), de wijnen vergisten spontaan en rijpen een deel op grote eikenhouten foudres. De wijnen die hij maakt zijn loepzuiver, energiek en je proeft de warme terrassen terug in de wijn. Sinds 2017 heeft Knebel zijn intreden gedaan bij de VDP en staat sindsdien bekend als een aanstormend talent voor Duitsland en de Mosel.

Review

The 2018er Uhlen Riesling GG, as it is referred on the main part of the label, is a legally dry wine which comes from old vines in the Laubach part of the vineyard and which was fermented and aged on its fine lees in stainless steel (2/3) and used small oak barrel (1/3) for 9 months. It offers an under-cooled and minty nose of dried white flowers, spices, candied citrus, grapefruit, smoke, and sea breeze, all wrapped into residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine proves very pure and vibrating on the smooth, tart, and mineral palate. Some bitter citrusy flavors add cut to the experience and give an additional dimension in the already extraordinarily complex and elegant finish. The wine proves assertive, but in no way over-powering as one is left with tart fruit zest, minerals, and a hint of earthy spices in the long and lingering after-taste. This stunning dry Riesling even has some upside, if it manages to develop further its aromatic precision at maturity. 2024-2038 95+ Mosel Fine Wines

The 2019 Uhlen GG is deep, pure and elegant on the flinty, precise and beautifully reductive nose that delivers slate, iron and crushed lemon aromas. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, intense, concentrated and silky textured Uhlen with a very long finish that reveals fine tannins and persistent salinity. Tasted at the domain in September 2020. 94/100 Stephan Reinhardt

Matthias Knebel believes that the dryness of last summer can only be countered by good work in the vineyards. Herbicide-free for about 10 years, working the soil, canopy management and a meticulously selective harvest with a trained harvest team guarantee balanced and elegant wines even in years like 2018 and 2019. "The team in spring/summer is the same as in autumn, which makes a lot easier, because our people already know the critical corners and know what they have to pay top attention to. Even within a plot, everything can be good for a few rows, but then suddenly the problem areas follow. You can see that and you can taste it. Fortunately, our people are on their toes, nothing escapes them," Knebel said. However, the processing of the grapes has recently changed according to the increasingly warm and dry vintages. While a few years ago the grapes were macerated for many hours, this hasn't happened the last two years, because the often higher pH levels would harm the racy Riesling character. As a result, the pressing pressure of the increasingly whole clusters is lower today, and more experiments are being made with fractionation of the must. "The aim is to produce cool, slender and elegant Rieslings with a still-concise acid structure and great finesse," he said. Knebel can no longer really identify with the softer and broader style of late-harvested, low-acidity grapes that were once cultivated here. Of the last two vintages, 2019 is the more exciting due to its piquant acidity, although 2018 is also a successful vintage. "We are always learning to try to do a little better every year. In 2018, we did well, but in 2019 we did even better. These wines have more tension, and that's what we are looking for."