Chablis 1e cru Montee de Tonnere (16) Long-Depaquit

This venerable 66-hectare Chablis estate, owned by Beaune's Maison Albert Bichot, boasts enviable holdings—including fully 25 hectares of premier and grand cru land, the fruit of which is harvested by hand—that are complemented by purchased fruit. Maturation is in used wood and stainless steel, generally lending only a discrete patina to the wines, with the exception of some 2017 cuvées reviewed here where crops were so small that it was necessary to increase the proportion of wood. This was an excellent tasting with estate manager Cécilia Trimaille—a former assistant vineyard manager at Château Margaux—who took the reins here in 2018 and who disclaims any intention to radically alter an aesthetic that emphasizes purity and incisiveness, while simultaneously displaying plenty of appetite to make incremental improvement in the vineyards and cellar. These 2017s, vinified by her predecessor Matthieu Mangenot, showed very well: tensile and racy wines with depth and substance. Above all, readers should give serious consideration to the emblematic La Moutonne, which performed very well indeed. I'm looking forward to following Long-Depaquit's evolution over the years to come.