Barolo ‘Falletto‘ (12) - Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo | Faletto Cru in Serralunga d’Alba

Bruno Giacosa

Bruno Giacosa’s vinification technique has been termed “updated traditional”:
Nebbiolo grapes, for example, are picked earlier, at optimum ripeness determined by
a combination of scientific analysis and hands-on experience. The grapes are
macerated for closer to 30 days than the time-honoured 50. This timing still taps into
the power and depth of Nebbiolo but produces wines with more finesse. In
maturation, Giacosa has not been tempted towards the fashionable use of small,
225l French barriques, instead staying with huge 5,000l Slovenian and French oak
botte, many of them 25 years old

Known as the Genius of Neive, Bruno Giacosa’s mastery of the Nebbiolo grape is
recognised in Piedmont and the wider world of wine alike - although the organisation
produces more than just Barolo and Barbaresco. Bruno Giacosa sadly passed away in
January 2018. But having suffered a stroke in 2006, it is his daughter Bruna, who has
been driving this great wine estate forward in recent years, supported by her sister
Marina. And, having worked at Neive for 16 years until 2008, oenologist Dante
Scaglione returned in 2011 as a consultant. The family name was first established in the Langhe in 1871 by Bruno Giacosa’s grandfather Carlo Giacosa - as a commerciante di vini, building a network of
excellent local growers and vinifying their grapes at the winery in Neive, near Alba.
After World War II, the 15-year-old Bruno joined his father Mario in the family
business. The prestigious Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili and Rabajà are neighbours but have
different soils and clearly definable characteristics: the former has unmatched
elegance and delicacy, while the latter is full-bodied and rich.

Review

The 2012 Barolo Falletto is a bit timid to open and needs extra time in the glass (especially when tasted this young). This wine was bottled in March. The wine already shows impressive complexity and depth with drying mineral notes that frame a pretty core of cherry and blackberry fruit. Background notes of light spice and grilled herb complete this pretty picture. What stands out most here, however, is the tight textural fabric of this wine. It is poised for very good aging potential.

Here is a brief roundup of the upcoming bottlings we can expect from Bruno Giacosa. No Barbera d'Alba Falletto is made in 2013 because part of that vineyard was removed, but production of that wine returned 2014. The 2010 vintage was a washout for Bruno Giacosa. Barolo and Barbaresco were not produced. The Barbaresco Riserva Asili (red label) was made in 2011, but not in 2012. The 2012 vintage only saw the production of Barbaresco Asili and 2013 will see a Barbaresco Rabajà. The 2014 vintage brings a slew of wines from Bruno Giacosa. Production in 2014 will include the base Barbaresco, Barbaresco Rabajà and Barbaresco Riserva Asili. The celebrated Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto (red label) was made in 2008 and will be followed by 2011, 2012 and 2014. That means that the next time we see the red label wine will be in 2017 (with the 2011 vintage). Only the white label was made in 2013. Happily for us, the 2014 vintage will see both the Barbaresco Riserva Asili (red label), and the Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto (red label). Bruna Giacosa tells me that the outlook looks good for many of the top-shelf wines in 2015, although the final decision will be taken in one year's time. 93+/100 Monica Larner